Over
70% of the earth’s surface is covered by water. The beaches, the
boundary between the oceans and the other 30% of the surface where
we live, is constantly battered by waves.
This
week I had a conversation with Kim McCoy, author of the third
edition of Waves and
Beaches. Kim has recently
completed an Ironman and will continue to swim, dive, surf, sail,
rock-climb and paraglide until motion stops, viscous drag ceases,
buoyancy is lost, and gravity ultimately wins.